November’s V&A Fashion in Motion programme presented one of London’s most successful young fashion designers, Roksanda Ilincic. The show took the form of five vignettes, specially created for the V&A and featured a selection of key pieces from her past three collections.
After studying both architecture and applied arts in her native Belgrade, Roksanda came to London where she gained her masters degree in women’s wear at Central St Martins College.
Critically acclaimed for her beautifully crafted garments, Ilincic’s distinct style is inspired by the romance and femininity of 1940s and 1950s Parisian couture. She combines these influences with contemporary twists such as raw edges, a-symmetrical lines, strong blocked colours, structural shapes and exaggerated pleating.
Models graced the runway with attitude and aside from harsh eyebrows and sleek hair, the bare minimum of makeup. Each one of them wore towering Christian Louboutin boots.
The choreography showed disparity – the animation of dancers followed by the sleekness of models added a playful tone alongside the silent movie charm of the tinkling piano. Movement enhances the creations; billowing silks flow behind the models and wave with the dancers.
Garments throughout the show played with contrasts, presenting Roksanda’s architecture versus fashion background; the base structures were foundations for lustrous fabrics in playful shapes and bold colour ways, whilst graphic elements went against intricate embellishment, sharp tailoring was set against flowing lines and bright accessories mixed with neutral outfits.
Roksanda’s talent lies in providing simple yet individual chic. She plays with hemlines, shape, structure, and colour; clean lines and boxy shapes counter balance gathering, netting, rouching and one of a kind embellishment.
Ilincic has been the recipient of numerous prestigious awards including on two occasions, the British Fashion Council Fashion Forward Award, whilst she has also been awarded Topshop’s ‘New Generation Sponsorship’ and ‘Fashion East’ for three seasons. She counts Cate Blanchett, Rosamund Pike, Kate Hudson and Christina Ricci, amongst her clients.
Fashion in Motion: Roksanda Ilincic is brought to you as part of the V&A’s Fashion in Motion series. Featuring some of the greatest designers of our time, Fashion in Motion makes high fashion accessible to a wide audience in the unique surroundings of the V&A.
Posted by BB 
